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Grillz have long been a staple in the diasporic community, from local tribes to the hip-hop community. While they’re often portrayed as flashy, they can also double as fine jewelry. In comes Aziza-Abdullah Nicole, the designer behind Aziza Handcrafted. It is a Brooklyn-based bespoke label that’s making enamel hardware ultra-chic.

Aziza Handcrafted Durag Pearl pendant PHOTO BY YAN GAPIKOV

How did you get started?

I actually got into grillz right before quarantine. I just didn’t see anything on the market that I personally liked. I like statement pieces, but I also like things that can be dainty, things that I can still wear on an everyday basis. And the grillz industry was always dominated by males. The jewelry that a lot of male designers would make was more flashy with thick open faces, and more of harder statements. So, during quarantine, I was like, ‘Let me just play around with this and see where it goes.’ For one, I didn’t think I’d be a jewelry designer. Two, I didn’t think I would be making grillz and having that [be] a part of my brand in a million years. People end up enjoying it and liking it. I was trash at the beginning and just took baby steps, practiced and perfected something, went to school and just made it better. So I guess it found me.

So before that, were you already an artist?

So I already had my jewelry brand Aziza Handcrafted. Grillz was just something that was a hobby. I was a sculptor before, and also an artist in so many different mediums. I already had the education in the hand memory of sculpting already. So it just became easier.

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I would love to get your perspective on women rocking grillz and showing that it’s not just a male-centered jewelry item.

When you go back into history, a lot of women wore grillz. Gold teeth were really dominant on women. So it’s just beautiful to see the art in a feminine way. My take on jewelry is always adding a feminine touch to everything. I have clients who are executive bankers and have diamonds on their teeth and an open face. I have clients who are pastors who are wearing their grillz at church. They’re mostly women. So it just shows beauty and a feminine take, which I love.

Aziza Handcrafted’s custom grillz featuring a diamond “K,” sapphires and a ruby marquise centerpiece PHOTO BY YAN GAPIKOV

I think what you are doing is showcasing this can be for the streets, but also be an elevated luxury item that could be worn with a tuxedo or a ballgown. You could really play with those elements, similar to fine jewelry.

That’s why I started. Now, I’m going to release my first fine jewelry collection. I already have my first fine jewelry piece, which is a durag pearl. But to release my collection… it’s hard for a lot of designers to even go into a space such as fine jewelry. But I’m dealing with grillz and it already gives you that open door. Working with grillz, you’re able to change the trajectory and the views. This can be elegant or an everyday piece. It doesn’t have to be something that’s really flashy or in your face. It could be something so settled, such as my take on an open face. I do more of a curved open face, which is more elegant. Curves are always more feminine. Edges are more dominant and masculine. I want my grillz to be worn at the Grammys.

The brand’s Bamboo split ring. PHOTO BY YAN GAPIKOV

Talk to me more about the collection.

It's a nine-piece collection with earrings, necklaces, pendants and rings. I didn't focus too much on bracelets, because that will come in November. It is very diamond heavy in this collection. Nice, minimal, stackable in diamonds, yet, a statement within culture.

Label founder Aziza-Abdullah Nicole. PORTRAIT BY TROY MATTISON

Can you describe your process of working with the client? Because it’s quite an intimate process.

I am big on intimate spaces. You will be welcome to my auxiliary, where I sit down with you, take your impressions, and then sketch out what you will have on your teeth, using an image of your mouth and smile as well as a drawing so you can see the idea of what you will get.

And it's a 45 minute session, and it's just you and I. Or if you book for two people, it will be just me and the clients. It's just an ambiance with incense burning. You got a nice playlist in the background, and you're just here to just enjoy and relax. And I take that tension off of you because sometimes—and I don't judge—a lot of people sit here and they're like, ‘Oh my gosh, I don't know what I want to get.’ I make it such a safe space. If you want to go crazy, let's go crazy, because it's just you and I. So it's a beautiful experience. I educate you on gems. So, if you do want something of a gem, I do educate you by showing you this is what color this will be, and this is what this size may be, and what will be best for you. So I do educate at the same time. That's one thing I do enjoy with my clients, is that they leave knowing something new.

Custom “Habibi” grillz; Bamboo earrings. PRODUCT PHOTOS BY YAN GAPIKOV

I would like to get your perspective on using gems. Each one has a different meaning, and I feel like putting one in your mouth is quite intimate. Do you see it that way too?

You have to remember that gold is actually a mineral. So, yeah, you’re right. My friend calls me the alchemist. I’m making a piece of art for you that you’re going to wear into your mouth that is also going to hold the energy for me into the creation process. The stones hold energy as well. That’s why my space is already a Zen place. Because I’m not going to make a piece when I don’t feel good that day, energetically or physically. The product that you have in your mouth is going to be a reflection of how you speak and how you feel. So cleanse it. Put it in water, set it under the moon and put intentions into it. Pay an affirmation into it. A piece of jewelry is not just jewelry, it’s also a mineral that holds energy.

Bamboo earrings. PRODUCT PHOTOS BY YAN GAPIKOV