Costume Designer Heidi Bivens Discusses Her Top Seven 'Euphoria' Fashion Moments
"It’s too difficult for me to choose favorite costumes from Euphoria, but there are standouts I hope prove timeless when viewers look back on the show in years to come," says costume designer Heidi Bivens, whose work on the popular HBO drama scored her three Emmy nominations. Here, Bivens—whose new book Euphoria Fashion published online by A24 on April 4 features conversations with cast and crew including Zendaya, Hunter Schafer, Alexa Demie, creator Sam Levinson and makeup artist Doniella Davy, with a foreword by designer Jeremy Scott—reflects on her favorite Euphoria costume looks.
1. Season 2, Episode 3 - "Ruminations: Big and Little Bullys"
“I took inspiration from early Dolly Parton—specifically three costumes Dolly has worn over the years—and created a mashup of those looks. The layering of patterns and textures in periwinkle or cornflower blue shades are key to the overall look. It’s Cassie’s version of ‘country' Barbie that also winks at the ‘Cottage Core’ fashion trend that was happening."
2. Season 2, Episode 7 - "The Theater and Its Double"
“I wanted to make what Jules wears in the audience for Lexi’s play stands out in the crowd. Hunter had this amazing Logo Graham dress given to her by the designer and I asked if we could use it for Jules. It’s made out of deconstructed white ribbed tank tops and hand illustrated by Gogo. I paired it with a bright dip-dyed cashmere cardigan from ABC Costumes to pull the audience’s eye to Jules when she’s on camera."
3. Season 2, Episode 2 - "Out of Touch"
“When deciding on Lexi’s look for her visit to Fez’s convenience store, I wanted to keep with her book-smart vibe, but also show her body in a way that didn’t look like she was hiding it. The knit cardigan clings to her body and pants fitted throughout. I love the combination of the colors on Maude and how beautiful they work with the production design. While the costume tips the viewer off that there is a new bolder version of Lexi, the red lips are the real piece de resistance for this look."
4. Season 2, Episode 6 - "A Thousand Little Trees of Blood"
“The first time Alexa tried on the vintage purple sequin Norman Norell mermaid dress, I knew it would make for and iconic moment for Maddy. We can thank Brynn Jones from Aralda Vintage for this beautiful contribution to the costumes of 'Euphoria.' The passionate vintage collector also happens to own the same dress in a brilliant citron that she wore for the party after her wedding ceremony. The purple color was perfect for Maddy as I had already decided Season One that was her color—royal and opulent."
5. Season 2, Episode 3 - "Ruminations: Big and Little Bullys"
"Derek and Young Call are some of my favorite characters of the whole show. They are so young and innocent and have their whole lives in front of them. I get teary every time I see the scene in the bar with them dancing to INXS. When creating the costumes for the early '90s world of teenage Cal, I decided to keep most pieces classic enough that they didn’t call too much attention to themselves. Besides Cal’s mustard yellow letterman jacket, I kept most of the tones in the flashbacks subdued like a patina on film."
6. Season 2, Episode 1 - "Trying to Get to Heaven Before They Close the Door"
“Jules’ New Year’s Eve look is one of my favorites. We fit before production shut down for Covid.” I was pleasantly surprised to come back to it as what I proposed for the party look even after the time it took to be able to get back to work. Trends are always changing but what I had previously planned still felt relevant. Hunter and I collaborated on the accessories including the gloves and ribbon choker. Rue’s look is pulled together with a black worn-in thermal, vintage vest and pants she found thrifting during a sober stint and caring more about her appearance. I always like to have some idea of where the character’s acquired the pieces so I can believe it. I hope it helps give the character a look that feels authentic."
7. Season 2, Episode 1 - "Trying to Get to Heaven Before They Close the Door"
"Faye is all things Y2K. Her signature Nike Air More Uptempos are an homage to 'Faye' in the anime Cowboy Bebop. Chloe Cherry was a joy to work with and Assistant Costume Designer Angelina Vitto came up with the most memorable Candy Land/ Millennium/ Southern California looks for her. Fashion is cyclical, and the attention Faye's style received when Season Two aired was a reminder that the early 2000s were overdue a renaissance."